Let’s go surfing
An online educational series with an aim to teach you how to make the best decision on where and when to surf .
It’s easy when you know how…
Series 1 – the very basics .
It may seem obvious but having the skills and knowledge to read and interpret surf reports and meteorological weather charts is vital to you catching waves and not . The thing is with surfing , most of the time we are forced to make compromises. The winds to strong, swell is to small or its just to bloody cold. Always waiting and searching for that occipitcal report when you know whatever happens it’s going to be firing and glassy AF. But the truth is these days a seldom and we make do with what we can , this series aims to educate you so no matter the weather and surf report you can get the best waves possible on the day 🙂 .
Step 1 – The wind
We have all been there, waking up at the break of day stepping out of our tents or crawling out the back of the car to freeze our bollocks off as we twist, turn and contort ourselves into a wetsuit which your growing ever more convinced has shrunk since you last did battle. And after all the effort and what to normal people seems insane you are stoked and pumped to walk over the crest of the dude which till now has blocked your view of the mornings perfect A frames. You make it to the view point board under your arm and you are greeted with wind blown mess , heart sinks (que the violins) as you realise the day you had planned to nail some manovers isn’t going to happen. But the day is not in Vein because you haven’t come this far not to got in !!! Now it’s that surfers determination coupled with some prior research and knowledge that’s going to improve your surfing.
The wind is what create swell miles out at sea and drives it towards us eger land dwelling surfs. Where swell meets the shallow waters we find surf. Simple enough . But it’s not just this swell you are looking at, the wind is just as important . One of the first things to consider is the winds direction and how it will effect the wave you are going to surf. If there is strong onshore wind you will most likely be faced will wind blown mess (waves which have been pushed over, creating what we see as white wash) , not great surfing conditions. The opposite happens with a strong off shore wind , this holds the face of the waves up for longer than normal results in a heavier more peaking wave more likely to close out and dump. These effects can be magnified or reduced with the strength of the winds.
IN A NUT SHELL.
Location, location, loaction, It is key that you choose the most ideal surf break for the condition on the day . Looking for those break that may be sheltered from high winds or that may be fetching more swell .
Here are a few screen grabs from today’s forecasts, see if you can get an idea of what the waves will be like from the information presented:
Keep your eyes out for those low wind days (like today) swell isn’t everything you can really improve and focus training when the waves a clean 🙂
More on swell, periods and weather charts to come.